We installed a shiny galvalume metal roof for this customer. We’ll check out some of the details below.

For this type B gas vent, we first installed a heat-resistant orange EPDM boot (with compression mastic fit using screws at 1″ on center around the boot perimeter), then slid a decorative metal shroud over for better aesthetics. You can also see how standing seam panels have a perforated edge for screws that gets covered and hidden by the next panel. Flathead screws are used, and for long panels, it is good to place each screw in the center of its slot to allow a little expansion/contraction of the panel. We also used heat-resistant ice and water shield visible under the panels. This isn’t required for metal at this slope, but was a desired upgrade of the customer. 

Sidewall flashings are another detail to make sure to do right. We ensure that there is a vertical rib of the panel (white dotted line profile in image), even if we must manually bend it up ourselves using a ‘Wuko bender.’ In the image below, you are at the base of the roof looking upwards (although your first impression might be the opposite!). The flashing (black dotted line profile in image) extends behind the siding, and comes downward over the ‘apron flashing’ at base termination (we bent it at a 45º angle for better aesthetics). All these details are critical to ensure there are no pinpoint spots vulnerable to water leaks. Just remember: water runs downhill!

For the ridge here, we used the z-flashing method (and mastic compression fit between it and the panels where screws went through). Since then, we’ve developed another method using an 8″ x ~1″ x 7″ ‘J-channel’ method that enables us to build the ridge prior to the panel installation using one ridge spanning over two J-channels, all riveted together, and riveted to the panels once they later get slid in. This is a much safer method in our opinion, as it enables installing the most dangerous detail while there is still a non-slick walking surface (prior to panels). A harness or other protection is still required for steep slopes, though.

You can also see that for the rakes (side edges of roof), we used two Wuko benders (one for 0º–90º, the other for 90º–180º, although the second phase can also be bent by hand if using gloves and caution) to bend the entire edge of the panel (yes, the full ~20′) around the drip edge. We also crafted a triangular diverter for the ends of under the ridges (probably not necessary).

This was a big, tedious job, but I’m proud of it in retrospect. We began with an existing flat and angled combination roof at Fort Rucker (now Fort Novosel) over a gym/daycare building.

Plans spec’d a recover, leaving the angled metal and flat membrane roofs intact while we built a new metal structure on top and then clad the top and sides of it with metal panels.

We put mastic under the metal rafters that seated upon the metal roof to mitigate leaks from the fasteners until our new roof was done. Quality mastic in compression like this does a fantastic job of shielding against water leaks.

In the image above, you can see styrofoam thermal spacers we used under the panels. We used spray adhesive glue to attach these styrofoam spacers. Then, floating clips were screwed to the purlins to hold the panels. X-bracing was also used, as seen below.

This was a rough and quick video, but it shows how to obtain some difficult key angles in metal roofing. To find interior angle of hip caps, the angle needs to be perpendicular to the hip line. Thus, it is slightly different than just using 180°-(2)(hip walk angle). On a flat roof, this is perpendicular. But at other slopes, you need to adjust (for an 8:12 slope, you would need 5 1/8 slope [23.13°] rather than 5 11/16 slope [25.36°]).

Please enjoy this video we put together to show the process of curving and seaming standing seam metal roof panels.

Roofing Types, Ranked

After over a decade of service, we provide you a bird’s eye view of our opinion of roof options.

#1 Slate.

There’s no way around it—if you have the budget, real stone slate from a North American quarry looks stunning and should last over a century.

#2 Standing Seam Metal.

This option is half the cost of slate, but can still last 50 years, looks amazing, and is quite reflective, leading to reduced cooling costs. It’s also recyclable at the end of its life.

#3 Copper.

A copper detail dormer can exceed slate’s unit price in some cases, but can also potentially outlast normal metal, and can provide a nice aesthetic.

#4 Asphalt Shingles.

This is the go-to option for most, is pretty durable for a couple decades+, and is more economical.